Planning a Vegetable Garden
Soil type
Most gardeners have to make the best of the soil which they have in
their backyards. Heavy clay soils present many problems. However, small
areas can be greatly improved by the addition of organic material, lime
and fertilisers.
Sandy loams and loam soils are best ; they allow freedom of root
growth and movement of moisture through the soil. Loamy soils are easy
to cultivate and do not form hard surface crusts. Loamy are not sticky
when wet like clay soils, nor do they run in free particles like sandy
soils.
Sandy soils require frequent watering and fertilisers are rapidly
leached through. However, they warm up early in the spring and are ideal
for early crops. They are not as fertile as loam or clay soils.
Vegetables require a good depth of soil, so gardeners should try to
build up from 200 to 300 mm of top soil.
Slope and aspect
It is easier to grow crops on level land than on a slope, but
drainage may present some problems. Try to avoid very low patches. If
land slopes choose a north-easterly aspect if possible. Run rows across
the slope, not up and down it. On level areas rows are best run north
and south.
Shelter
The effect of wind on the growth of vegetables is often
underestimated. In addition to causing physical damage to the plant,
cold winds cool the plants and soil, delaying growth and maturity.
Hot winds increase the rate of water loss from the leaves, causing the
plant to wilt. Hot winds also dry the surface soil and reduce the amount
of water available for shallow surface roots.
Flower setting is often affected by hot winds and gardeners find that
beans, in particular, will fail to set. Winds, hot and cold, loosen the
plant roots in the soil and may damage the root system. Young seedlings,
such as carrots, are particularly susceptible to sandblast in light
soils.
Many suburban gardens are well sheltered by high paling fences, but
country gardens may not be so fortunate. Hedges, rows of trees and tall
growing crops, such as sweet corn and ryecorn, and artificial windbreaks
of wood and metal can be used.
A solid fence or hedge is not desirable. This type of barrier will
create turbulence on the downwind side some distance from the windbreak
and may even cause more damage than direct wind. Slatted paling fences
are used successfully in metropolitan market gardens. They have about a
50% opening. Plastic mesh wind-break fences are now available ; these
are particularly useful in the large farm garden in exposed areas.
Large trees can cause problems as wind may be funnelled under them.
They also compete with the garden for moisture and plant nutrients and
may cause undesirable shading, especially in the winter months.
Tall growing crops, such as sweet corn are effective for summer wind
protection. It should be planted as early as possible to ensure that the
crop is high enough to provide sufficient protection early in the
season.
Trees and shade
Vegetables need maximum light for good growth, especially in the
winter months. Pay particular attention to where shadows fall during the
short winter days, and do not locate the vegetable patch where it will
be shaded by buildings and trees. Trees and shrubs which are too close
will take water from vegetable beds.
Accessibility and water supply
The vegetable garden should be conveniently located close to the
kitchen door and not too far from the tool shed. The water supply,
however, is an important consideration especially on farms and
institutions.
On farms it is often more convenient to divide the garden into two
sections. A small garden close to the house can be planted with beans,
carrots, beet, lettuce, and other small vegetables which are easily
cultivated with hand tools.
Pumpkins, melons, potatoes, sweet corn, unstaked tomatoes, and other
crops requiring much more room can be planted away from the house,
possibly where land can be ploughed with a farm tractor. |
